Sussex Border Path 12 Rudgwick and Rowhook

Conditions today could not have been better for winter walking. Clear skies and a chill in the air meant for a frosty start which is always good to encourage a quick warm up! I started my Sussex Border Path loop today at Rudgwick, a village that I skirted last time out by walking along the Downs Link path. It was tempting to reprise a lot of that section of the walk, but I resisted the temptation to walk too much of it. I parked on the roadside in the village fairly close to the church and headed up to a footpath opposite the Kings Head public house. I left the car listening to the first couple of games of the Australian Open Tennis semi-final between Andy Murray and Novak Djokovic.I vowed to keep an eye on the match on my mobile phone on the way round. Heresy I know but I was intrigued to see how it went.

Any thoughts of easy conditions created by the frost were soon dashed as there was enough warmth in the air to have melted the top surface of the path and immediately I knew that despite the benign weather conditions it would not be easy underfoot all day. A slick and greasy surface suggested that I would become a mud monster by the time I got back! I crossed a couple of fields and a wooded stream valley before coming to the old railway once again just south of Baynards Tunnel. To my surprise I saw that a lot of vegetation had been removed since my visit three weeks earlier and the view to the tunnel was almost unobstructed from some distance away.

As with the last time I came along here there was a lot of bird activity in the trees, with much twittering birdsong in the air. I passed a small group of pensioners that looked like they were returning from their early morning dog walk. It is unusual for me to meet people on weekday walks, but they were a lot friendlier than most people I encounter and I chatted to them for a short while. Surprisingly perhaps these were the only walkers I encountered all day!

Above the tunnel I rejoined the official Sussex Border Path. This skirted along the side of a field with a view across the Surrey Hills to the north and a still functioning brickworks to the south. Brick works used to be a major feature of Sussex industry but most of the works I remember as a boy are now long since closed. Although still in use, there wasn’t much activity today though so I didn’t linger too long.

Soon enough I was back in Rudgwick after my little loop to position myself where I had left the path three weeks earlier. I took the opportunity to have a good look around the churchyard at the 13th Century church. Despite the fact that we are in the middle of winter there was plenty of colour in the churchyard with a bush sporting some very red berries at one end and the first flush of daffodils at the other. This is testament to the largely mild winter that we have so far been having.

Eventually I pushed on from the church and headed eastward along some very attractive estate roads. This was something of a relief as the all weather surfacing wasn’t as hard as a road, but did give some welcome respite from the mud. The light in the trees above really caught my eye, especially the silver birch trees which look so good in this winter weather. It gave me the opportunity to play further with the camera and I experimented a lot with bokeh shots, with mixed results. I am beginning to understand the limitations of the camera and although it does take some really good quality shots, I am still not quite convinced that it offers such a significant improvement on the compact, when the extra bulk is considered. I shall probably end up taking both cameras – probably not the best idea but it should give me a better range all round.

There were quite a few small things that I could focus on in the otherwise brown and green landscape. Somehow rosehips suddenly take on extra significance and even lichen can add some cheery colour to the otherwise drab and slumbering vegetation. After all the woodland walking of previous sections this part was remarkably open and views across to the Surrey Hills were almost uninterrupted for quite some time. Even the couple of farms that I passed, at Bury St Austen’s and Ridge Farm were remarkably clean and tidy; quite the contrast to previous sections of this tour of Sussex.

It was through this section that I saw something rather remarkable – a chap mowing the lawn! I have never seen this on a January day before. I was so surprised that I remarked to the chap doing the work and he advised me that if he didn’t his lawn was growing at such a rate that it would be impossible to do by mid-February. Remarkable! It just goes to show what mild weather we have had this winter.

Eventually I came to a busy road at Honeywood House. I passed the rather splendid little lodge house and passed through what could be described as the tradesman’s entrance, for the path took a discrete line along the back of the estate. I think it now serves as a nursing home, although not all of the buildings are in use. Nevertheless given the architecture of even the outbuildings I would say that this was probably once a grand estate. The path slipped by the houses almost unnoticed and I plunged into the woods.

The woods here were fully of fluffy mosses, slivery branches of trees glowing in the sunlight above and a straightish track, possibly once an estate road. The woods were very active with singing birds and the loud knockings of woodpeckers. Yet try as I might I saw virtually none of these birds, save for one small blue tit high up in the branches beyond the reach of my camera! I came out at yet another lodge house, this one slightly grander than the other end of the estate. The owner was in his garage tinkering with his vintage motorbikes. I thought better of intruding on his privacy and pushed on without bothering or taking any pictures of him. His motorbikes were exquisite though – I was tempted for a moment!

At Monks Lane I took a sharp right and wandered along the road through the middle of hedged in fields. Behind me was the very substantial house of Monks, yet another example of fine country living for the uber-rich. Not sure that I would ever really feel comfortable living in such a large house, although I do enjoy the architecture of such places. A little further on at Monks Farm I was greeted by a very loud barking dog – not the usual guard dog but a big fluffy haired black one! He was a nuisance as no-one seemed to take any notice of him but me and I wanted to linger for a minute so I could check my route!

At Monks Farm I left the official route. To be honest the mud was getting me down a bit and although I was enjoying the fresh winter air, the constant sliding and picking my way through puddles was not enjoyable. I plotted a route that took me as close as possible to Stane Street, the ancient Roman Road that used to run between Noviomagus (Chichester) and Londinium (London) and now largely under the A29 (apart from this short section in North Sussex).

I went from Monks Farm to Charmans Farm, a rather interesting farm although surprisingly little human activity. The farm was full of cattle cooped up in barns, although to be fair they didn’t look unhappy. I am sure a warm barn is preferable to a muddy field anyway on a cold winter day. A few of them looked up as I went by, probably wondering if I was there to feed them. Alongside the farm was an enormous pile of tyres, which I subsequently learned were not there because of some kleptomania issue, but used to keep the tarpaulins covering the silage outside weighted down.

A couple of muddy fields later and a short stretch of woodland surrounding a small stream and I entered what I can honestly say is one of the biggest fields I have ever seen in my home county. The path took me on a route all the way round, probably the best part of half a mile! At the far end I entered the small hamlet of Rowhook. This small place was filled with the pungent smell of wood smoke. The road into the village had the cheery sight of a small bed of purple crocuses. I guess spring is not that far away! The pub opposite, the Chequers, had a rather unusual looking corrugated metal outbuilding and was very whitewashed. Sadly no decent looking pub sign, but the place otherwise looked in rude health which was good to see for such an out of the way place.

I was back on Stane Street briefly and passed by perhaps the most incognito trig point I have ever seen, lurking beyond a thicket of vegetation at the side of a field next to the path. Seeing anything from that point would no longer be easy and I am guessing it hasn’t been used for its primary purpose for some considerable time. I’m not even sure it would be ripe for adoption in that location.

At the intriguingly named Burnt House I took a sharp right to head off through Roman Wood on a straight track that started out wide and true and got increasingly narrow and overgrown as I proceeded. The woods were strangely silent now too – removing much of the enjoyment from the walk. I was glad to eventually reach the lake at the far end. This is now a fishing haunt although the map suggests that an ironworks would have been located at the far end. There aren’t too many furnace ponds that are so readily identified as being associated with the 17^th Century iron industry but this must have been one of the more important ones.

The walk through the subsequent part of the woods couldn’t have been more different to the section before the lake. This was a light and airy woodland, with little undergrowth and even plenty of birdlife! It made for a very enjoyable last section of walking and I was pleased to get back to Rudgwick. I got back to the car to hear the last game of the tennis match, remarkably still going on five hours after I had left it. Inevitably perhaps, Murray lost but he gave his opponent a hell of a match.

This was a section of the Border Path and loop that would perhaps have been more enjoyable when conditions underfoot are a little friendlier. Yet, even on a day like this there is much to commend this part of Sussex. Plenty of history, no crowds of people and the feeling of nature going on all around you. I had a thoroughly enjoyable time!

Sussex Border Path 11 Loxwood and Rudgwick

Sadly I didn’t manage to get out at all over the Christmas holiday as I have done in recent years since the weather was so poor. Luckily the weather during January has improved significantly and on the first available weekend I managed to get out for another foray on the Sussex Border Path. I am approaching the section closest to my home now, which is very convenient for these short winter days. As it happens I didn’t manage to get out until nearly noon so today was never going to be anything too ambitious.

I parked at the Wey and Arun canal car park at the Onslow Arms in Loxwood for this section of the walk. My route took me up the towpath northwards until I met with the official route where I had left it back in December. I was eager to use my new camera, a Christmas present that I had not really put through its paces yet. A much bigger one than I am used to, the new model is one of the compact cameras that has a detachable lens. This would be a walk of discovery for how the new camera performs as well as checking out this part of the Sussex countryside!

The walk along the canal towpath was very revealing. Regular readers may recall that I undertook the Wey-South Path a couple of years ago (in August, with very different conditions!). This time I was heading in the opposite direction but it was immediately clear how much progress had been made since my last visit. There were a lot of excavations going on trying to restore the mile or so to the north of Loxwood.There was also some significant progress in rebuilding the locks, so it isn’t beyond the bounds of possibility that this section of canal may well be open for business in the next couple of years.My only gripe about the whole operation was that it meant a very muddy walk for me as the towpath had been rather ripped up by the heavy machinery carrying out the work.

After about 45 minutes I reached the official path and headed off towards Alfold Bars. Immediately the going got better underfoot as I headed along a very attractive tree lined path. Dotted along the strip of woodland were holly bushes resplendent with their bright and shiny red berries. With the bright sunshine coming through and the birdsong one could be forgiven for thinking that spring had already arrived, even though it was still so early in the year!

At the end of the avenue of trees I passed by Oakhurst Farm, where some serious refurbishment work was going on. A few ramshackle buildings around the edge game some hint to what had been probably a fairly run down looking farm at one stage. A little further on and I was reunited with the Loxwood Road, one that I had crossed at the beginning via the new(ish) canal bridge. This surface crossing was rather more hazardous!

Before I pushed on I took a look at the pub called Sir Roger Tichborne. This pub has bucked the trend by being completely refurbished and brought back from dereliction in the last few years. The car park was nice and full, suggesting that business might be quite good. The pub is named after a notorious case in Victorian times relating to a missing member of the aristocracy and a man who came forward to fit the bill but who was later unmasked as an imposter. The story probably explains why the pub has two different portraits exhibited on each side of the pub sign.

I took the wonderfully named Pigbush Lane opposite. This lane led me through farmland with some tantalising views out towards the Downs, now distant to the south. As I headed down towards an attractive farm in a dip in the rolling hills I caught sight of a really good looking fairy ring of fungus, still in excellent shape on this January day.

The walk then headed through woodland for quite awhile, making this section very reminiscent of what had gone before. Although unremarkable walking, the sunshine and puffy white clouds gave some excellent lighting conditions. Muddy conditions were very much the order of the day for this stretch too, with some fearsome puddles in places (almost lake-like!). I eventually came upon a most unusual sight – a large private school with some very extensive grounds. Judging by how deserted it all looked I reckon that the children hadn’t yet returned from their Christmas vacation, despite being a week into the New Year.

At the other end of the school I crossed the strangely quiet A281 and headed along a Hillhouse Lane opposite. Judging from the road signs at either side of the junction I was now heading along the border itself. It was a lane full of surprises, from the fly-tipping in the layby a few metres in, to the trees still covered in autumn berries and apples by the strangely name Aliblastairs. One house was receiving an extensive refurbishment with some serious scaffolding going on around it. From the evidence I have seen so far in this area, the recession doesn’t seem to be biting here.

At the end of the lane the path once again descended into the woods, alongside what I took to be a deer farm judging by all the high fences around and the rather miserable looking does hanging out in one corner. The sun made a welcome reappearance here after it had been hiding behind the increasing cloud layer for a time. It shone over the rambling house of Great Inholms, picking its red tiles out really well. The path then took a route across a couple of fields high on a ridge that offered really good views out to the south.

I didn’t realise at the time but this was the hill through which Baynards Tunnel had to traverse. This is was on the long lost railway line from Horsham to Guildford that I had explored in April 2009. I had picked a route that meant that I would leave the Sussex Border Path here to retrace my steps along the old line as far as the strange bridge at Rudgewick.

I stopped briefly at the tunnel to have a closer look. Getting down the cutting sides was no easy matter though and I have ran and half slithered to the bottom, making quite a muddy mess of myself in the process. It was just about worth it, although the view into the tunnel itself was quite limited. Beyond the inevitable graffiti was just inky blackness, for the other end of the tunnel has been filled in to allow for a bat roost to flourish. I headed south along the Downs Link path, which turned out to be a delightful section and vindicating my decision to use this route. By now the clouds that had bedevilled my picture taking for awhile drifted off to reveal the loveliest January day I can remember in a good long time.It was remarkably warm (13^o C) and even the birds seemed to be fooled into thinking it was an early spring day!

The going underfoot was easy going as this section of the Downs Link is probably one of the best for drainage and surfacing. I reminded myself that this would make for an excellent place to come for a winter family walk with my children. I passed by the site of Rudgewick station, now sadly untraceable like so many other stations on this former railway.

The line crossed the A281 again, this time at level rather than on the bridge that would once have carried the line across the road. A little further on and I came to the famous double deck bridge. This was not originally built this way, but was necessary after the railway inspector insisted that the line was re-profiled as he felt that Rudgwick station was built on a dangerously steep slope. The original bridge was therefore too low and another was built on top. It remains a remarkable relic, even though the line has now been closed for 47 years and seemingly will never return.

Just beyond the bridge I left the line and headed back initially across fields back towards Loxwood. Being wintertime the sun was now disappearing fast and I got a little concerned that I would not make it back to the car park before it got dark. At Tisman’s Common I joined the road back to Loxwood and found that this route back was a mixed blessing. While it provided a quick route and was easy underfoot, I became aware that in the fading light I wasn’t really dressed with appropriately easy to see clothing. Eventually at the first opportunity and a mile and a half later I took a different route down into the woods where I thought that the gathering gloom would be less of an enemy than a speeding car heading towards me.

As it happened this turned out to be a lucky break. The full moon was now high in the sky and lit my way to a certain extent now that the sun had gone. I also managed to find my way back to the Wey and Arun Canal and so had the easy task of merely following the towpath back to the Onslow Arms.

In the gloaming (I love that Scottish word – it seems so appropriate!) the atmosphere of the old canal was very interesting and serene. I didn’t linger too long though – I was in a bit of a race to get back before it got truly dark. In that I was successful – it was 4.30pm when I got back. A little close for comfort perhaps and I could have done without the scary walk along the road as the sun went down. However, I think I was too hard on myself – as I pulled away from the Onslow Arms, I passed by a youth wearing dark clothes riding a bike with no lights and wearing the biggest headphones I have ever seen. My view of safety is clearly not shared by everyone!

This was a pleasant stretch of the walk, spoiled only by some stretches of really boggy mud that were almost impassable. The section of the Sussex Border Path was infinitely better than the loop route, which was a relief as so often it has been the other way around. Time it right and I reckon the Sir Roger Tichborne looks like a good watering hole on the way round too!

Sussex Border Path Section 10 Durfold and an Old Canal

The two biggest enemies for December walking are the shortage of daylight hours and the sea of mud that normally comes with every path! It pays not to be too ambitious for what can be achieved on these short days and I was quite pleased that I could cut my cloth according to the amount of time I had! I changed my plans somewhat as I had a later than normal start to my walk and I was keen to revisit the area around The Lake that I had only managed to see during my rather fog-bound walk last time out.

I parked at the pocket car park at the Woodland Trust site at Durfold Wood. Luckily I was one of only two cars there, as there are only about half a dozen spaces at most. From the car park I took the track leading into the wood so that I could meet up with the Sussex Border Path at the south end. Although marked on the map as an unofficial track, the quality of it seemed pretty good until I got into the wood proper. The quality deteriorated until eventually I wasn’t sure there was a track at all!I think the people from the Ordnance Survey were being a bit ambitious showing it on the map. After fighting my way through bushes I eventually emerged on to the right path.Despite all the discomfort of not having a proper path to follow it was lovely wandering through the woodland on such a lovely sunny day, as the few remaining leaves on the trees reflected the light so well.

At the far end of the ‘path’ was a large clearing created by forestry activity. Clear cutting of this nature is quite unusual in Sussex and so it was quite a stark sight. However, at the edge of the clearing was a very healthy looking holly bush taking full advantage of the new found light it had gained after the loss of its neighbours. Luckily it was well away from any roads as it would surely have been plundered for its bright red berries. I followed the SBP for only a short distance before heading down towards Winkins Woods Farm. By now the heavy soil underfoot had caused me some discomfort and so I proceeded rather more slowly as I continued towards the Lake.

When I got to the twin farms of Haymans and Little Haymans, I was rather curious to see that there was plenty of building work going on. I also had to keep my wits about me as the builders had rigged up a number of level lines with string and pegs, creating quite a tripping hazard. I managed to negotiate my way through the mud and building work to head out across a number of fields before finally getting to The Lake.Last time out I had only the briefest glimpse of this body of water, but now approaching from this side I was amazed to see how big this body of water actually was. I am guessing that it once fed a water mill, as there were some mill-like building below what looked like a dam at the end I had approached.I took the opportunity to linger and have my lunch here – it was a most agreeable place to stop.

The official path continued onwards towards Frith Lodge. However, I wanted to see a bit more of the Lake and so I rather nautily continued along the side of the field so I could get a longer view. I took care not to trespass on to the section that was controlled by the local angling society – they were quite keen to keep out walkers! Presumably they disturb the anglers’ peace and quiet! I’m not sure I was trespassing by following the field edge, but as it was a weekday and I was by myself I didn’t think anyone would mind too much, especially as there seemed to be a path of sorts. I did feel relieved when I reached the path I had last walked down three weeks earlier though.

The mood of this part of the lake was rather different to the other week when the fog had descended and I was surrounded by gloominess. Now everything had a fresh feel in the crisp winter air and I could actually see the view as I wandered up past the Deer Tower & I was really pleased that I had chosen to head back this way rather than take the route recommended by the guide book. The Deer Tower still looked deserted, which was a pity. I could live in a place with such character! Maybe it is a holiday house?

I pushed on past Shillinglee Park and took a look at the North Ponds, which had been almost invisible last time out. Today they positively glowed! I retraced my steps and headed along the road rather than taking the path that I had last time out. This saved me a bit of time and I had already concluded that I wouldn’t see anything that I hadn’t last time out. As it happens I got a new view of the rather impressive looking Shillinglee House, which I had completely missed last time. In the field next to me was a rather surprising looking addition to the field of sheep – an ostrich strutting around! It looked like it had some serious attitude so I didn’t get too close!

At White’s Hill, I finally caught up with the SBP. When I looked at my watch I was rather surprised to see that I had already used half my time getting to this point so I knew I would have to put my skates on a bit to catch up some time! Luckily now I was on the official path, the going was rather easier and I didn’t have to constantly map read in order to navigate myself. The path followed a ridge of sorts between fields and woods mostly, although there was a brief interlude when I crossed an all-weather horse racing training gallops.I also met a man heading in the same direction as me with a very large dog that was straining at the leash.He looked rather annoyed to see me as I think we wanted to let the dog go running across the fields. Both he and I were relieved when we went our separate ways.

The next couple of miles were a very pleasant ramble along field edges and through pieces of woodland. The fungi, which had been such a feature of my autumn season of walks this year were starting to die off. Some of the trees still had leaves on, but mostly they were now bare as winter started to take hold. Eventually I reached the end of Durfold Wood again and passed a house where the dogs let loose in the grounds of an adjacent large house were barking their brains out at me. It was rather an irritating encounter especially as the dogs were very persistent and the grounds were quite large. Still, I guess the owners are unlikely to have any problem with burglars!

I skirted the rather odd little settlement at Shortlands Copse; a group of houses arranged like a mini housing estate that was strange in as much as it wasn’t connected to any other village. I did spot a small bungalow on the edge of the settlement that would be desirable for a single person to live in (as long as you got on with your neighbours that is!).

I crossed the main road ahead by a very attractive looking lodge house and headed out over the fields. This onward section of walk skipped between Sussex and Surrey, which meant that the signage wasn’t always terribly reliable. In fact when I got into the woods further ahead I had my worst navigational nightmare for some time, when I followed the signage and found myself walking along a path that I wasn’t convinced was what it purported to be. Very overgrown in places, it was not a pleasant experience. Added to that and the sunny weather that I had enjoyed thus far was now being replaced by some very overcast conditions and the day definitely began to lose its shine somewhat.

Eventually when I had managed to find my way once again I ended up walking along a well maintained track through the woods, which was rather more pleasurable. As I walked along I noticed a very low flying helicopter passing overhead. I didn’t take too much notice of it at the time, but a little further ahead when I came to the end of Hog Copse I passed a very large Dallas type ranch-house with the helicopter parked on the front lawn! Further down the garden I was also rather perturbed by a couple of cows that looked a bit unnatural, when I realised that they were in fact made of plastic. Maybe they were made by the same company that supplied Milton Keynes?

A bit further on and I reached Burberry Bridge. For me this signalled the end of the official part of my walk today. I would be heading back via the towpath of the Wey and Arun Canal, a walk I had previously taken in August 2009. Wandering along the towpath today was rather a different proposition from back then, with a chill wind in my face now that the sun had disappeared. The towpath was very muddy in places too, which wasn’t very pleasant walking. I did make some quick time though as the towpath is nice and flat and there was no problem with navigation.I wandered along for about two miles and thought at one stage that I might get a bit more sunshine as the clouds broke. However, what I did get as I wandered back through the woods to the car park was a dose of rain and it got very dark as I returned. I was extremely relieved to get back to the car after trudging through some very uninspiring woodland for the last couple of miles back.

This section of the Sussex Border Path was very pleasant but there were some navigational problems along the route. There was a lot of woodland walking, which although very pleasant, didn’t afford a great many views. It may have been better to tackle this section during the autumn or spring months when the woodland was at its best. Even the canal towpath section of the return route was a bit drab, although that was probably due in the main to the overcast weather that I had by now encountered.