Rouen Country Walk

St Catherine's Viewpoint

This 11km walk is also available from the tourism office in Rouen and allows you to escape from the city centre into the surrounding countryside and overlook the Seine at the end.  Much like the other Rouen walk that we did this one starts at the Cathedral/ Tourist Office.  I walked down the Rue St Romain and past the Joan of Arc museum and across the road and past the Saint Maclou Church.  I was lucky enough to have picked an excellent day to do the walk - we were really lucky with plenty of sunshine during our week's stay.  I chose a time late in the afternoon to go out and as I passed by the market and restaurants and cafes there were plenty of people about, either packing up the stalls for the day or sitting outside on the pavement.  In fact it was surprising how busy the cafes were considering it was relatively early in the week.  I couldn't imagine scenes like this in Britain.

St MacLou Church

As I headed away from the main churches the historic centre petered out and I walked along a street that was far more modern in character.  At the far end of the street I turned left and crossed the road where I walked briefly along a disused looking railway line that appeared to serve the port.  Judging by the shiny rails it still gets used so I assume that it sees the odd working?  The trains must look pretty big in this environment though - the line was almost like a tramway through the streets.  As the line diverged to the right I kept ahead through the grounds of the local hospital and then under the bridge of a busy main road.  I turned right past the fire station and found myself in the grounds of a sports stadium.  This wasn't the nicest stretch of walk it has to be said but bear with me - the last quarter of a mile or so was necessary for positioning.  The onward stretch was far more enjoyable and rather surprising.

Baseball

I looped around the sports complex, where unusually baseball seemed to be a popular sport.  I had no idea that the French played baseball but it certainly seemed popular at this club.  As I looped around the sports pitches I came upon a narrow waterway that I took to be some form of canal.  I learned later that it was more of an industrial river constructed to drive the machinery in the mills, mostly to manufacture food products and textiles.  It is also possible to walk the entire length of the waterway although it is only about 3km in length.  This section probably covers the highlights of the route.  I was soon high above a community garden that looked well cared for although the produce in the plots was still some way from being ready for harvest.  The path alongside the waterway was pretty busy with runners and cyclists and its leafy nature certainly lent itself to this kind of activity even on a hot sunny day.

Petite Eaux De Robec

As with so many of these kinds of waterways there is a corridor of countryside that follows them that seems insulated by the surroundings.  Even though it was still hemmed in by urban housing the tranquility of the towpath was very much like this.  The only interruption was when a train clattered over the bridge that I soon passed under.  Above me looked like a fairly complex railway between lines heading to Paris, Amiens and the local docks line that I had seen earlier.  Not far beyond was a relic of the former industrial times, Le Moulins Des Dames De St Amand (The mill of the two ladies of St Amand).  This former mill still has a working water wheel that is used for demonstrations of grinding corn.  The rest of the building looks like it has been turned into upscale apartments.

Former Mill

I really enjoyed this section of walk - it was easy to follow and the restoration of all the buildings had been done sensitively by keeping all the historic details even where in some cases the nature of the building's use had changed significantly.  It was not just the mill I saw before but others further on.  There was even a second with a water wheel although I am not sure it was still working in this instance.  For a while the waterway took on the appearance of an industrial canal of more modern vintage as we passed by a rather concrete slab of a building.  It wasn't industrial in this case although it resembled one - it was rather surprisingly a boxing gym.

Water Wheel

The next mill has become a museum open mostly at weekends.  There weren't any  visitors when I passed by but there were a few blokes tinkering around and there was quite a lot of random stuff including a miniature steam locomotive parked in the front yard of the mill.  I got a birds eye view of it courtesy of the height differential between mill and waterway path.  I also had to switch sides here, crossing a small bridge and continuing on past some more vintage industrial buildings that looked as if they were still in use.  I lost the waterway here as it disappeared behind another waterwheel never to be seen again.  I continued along the road and turned right at the next junction where I was confronted with a rather unusual church, St Pierre in Carville.  This church has two separate parts - a Gothic tower and another part that was built slightly away from the tower following a fire in 1562 during the Wars of Religion.  Sadly the whole church is now closed due to the roof  not being watertight.  It looks rather sorry for itself - hopefully one day it might be restored.

Moulin St Gilles

I crossed a very busy main road and headed through the village-like suburb of Carville.  I suspect that it was once a separate settlement that has now been swallowed by greater Rouen.  I passed underneath another railway viaduct and crossed over to leave the road briefly and walk up through some woods where I was to skirt around Chateau De Waddington.  I have not been able to find out more about this place - I imagine it had something to do with the celebrated Waddington Family, Victorian industrialists who were born in France but educated in England and with English family.  William Waddington won the boat race for Cambridge and in later life briefly became Prime Minister of France.  I suspect this place was associated with his brother Richard, also a French parliamentarian, as a nearby street is named after him. The view of the castle was pretty fleeting, almost as mysterious as its history.

St Pierre Church in Carville

I was soon back on the road and was now starting the climb to the viewpoint I would get later on.  It was gentle at first but when I got to the top of the road and left the pavement it got steeper.  It wasn't easy to find the onward path but eventually I located it between houses.  Soon I was back in woodland and this continued right to the top of the hill.  It wasn't that easy to navigate through the woods but essentially up here I was expected to stick to the edge of the housing estate where it met the woodland.  In theory that went pretty well until I left the housing estate and had to cross the last stretch through the woods without the houses as my guide.  I took a few wrong turns here, not helped by the fact that there had been quite a lot of clearance work up here and some paths I didn't recognise had appeared through what presumably was once just bushes.  After a few wrong turns in the maze of paths I eventually found the right one that led me to the viewpoint of St Catherine which overlooks the ancient city of Rouen and the River Seine running through it.

Chateau De Waddington

The viewpoint is surprisingly good considering the modest height of it.  I sound found as I approached the main viewing area that it is a very popular place for picnics, with many families up here.  I have to say though that I looked like the only one that had come on foot - everyone else looked a lot less sweaty and tired than me.  I felt pretty satisfied that I had come on fot though - somehow a view is always better for the effort you put into it.

Entering The Woods

I dropped down the hill via what seemed a short zig-zag path past a large cemetery that I would rather have liked a closer look at.  When I got to the bottom of the hill I passed underneath the main road and entered the city centre.  For reasons that escaped me the map suggested I went via a housing estate that didn't seem to have much merit other than a look at a very small garden in the corner.  I'm not sure whether it was worth the detour.  The map was pretty unclear though and the instructions were non-existent so there maybe something here that I was supposed to pay attention to.  I retraced my steps back to the cathedral which wasn't far distant.

Sweep Of The Seine

As a walk this was a bit of a mixed bag.  Some sections were absolutely delightful - I really enjoyed the waterside section leading out of the city.  The climb into the woods was quite satisfying as a physical challenge and the viewpoint was excellent.  However there were quite a few navigational challenges that could have benefited from a few more instructions and some road sections that perhaps could have been rerouted.  Nevertheless it is well worth doing to get a wider context of the city. 

Gothic Detail

Rouen City Walk

Rouen Cathedral - Summer Light Show

When visiting any new city it is worth seeking out the tourist information centre to see if there is a published walk that will take you all around the major sights or points of interest.  We have been to Rouen a number of times but not for many years so we wanted to pack a lot into our time here.  The tourist information office in Rouen is directly opposite the Gothic cathedral.  The cathedral is surely the centrepiece of this remarkable mediaeval city and has survived Viking invasion and World War II.  The first occasion it was destroyed entirely and rebuilt, while on the second it sustained a lot of damage but you wouldn't know such is the fantastic restoration.  The frontage is full of the most exquisite detail that no camera can properly capture its majesty.  We spent a lot of time admiring the frontage before going inside.  It is as grand inside as it is out and a few interesting features to point out are the tombs of Richard the Lionheart and Rollo, founder of the Duchy of Normandy in 911.  There is also an interesting set of photos detailing the damage sustained by the cathedral in the War and how it was restored.

Grand Clock

Before moving on it is worth looking at the building that the tourist office is in.  This was once the House of the Exchequer and it was from here that Claude Monet painted his series of Cathedral scenes in the 1890s.  We used the route as a guide rather than following it religiously partly because it seems to be two loops from the starting point of the cathedral.  Thus we followed the next part back to front and headed down through the pedestrianised streets towards the Great Clock for which Rouen is so famous.  On the way we detoured one block to take a look at the huge Palais De Justice, a large edifice that no doubt has played an important part in a good many lives in this area even if a lot of people don't wholly know what goes on there.  

Spy

Over the course of the week we stayed in the city we probably passed the Great Clock at least half a dozen times and it looks just as good at night lit up as it does gleaming in the sunlight during the day.  The clock itself is a slightly strange mix of Gothic belfry, Renaissance archway and clockface and an 18th Century fountain.  It seems to sit so well among the surrounding buildings in this busy street.  We continued down through the pavement cafes between all the people gossiping and drinking coffee and wine before crossing the appropriately named Rue Jeanne D'Arc, by far the most person associated with the city.  Jeanne D'Arc is better known as Joan of Arc, a slightly mythical and unlikely heroine who led the French Army to victory over the English during the Hundred Years War.  She was subsequently captured by the Burgundian Army, allied with the English, and handed over as a prisoner.  Rouen was still under English control at that point in the war and it was here that she was brought, declared guilty of witchcraft and burned at the stake.

Historic Quarter

We took a short detour down a beautiful and quiet street full of atmosphere and lined on either side with half timbered buildings which characterise much of the historic quarter of Rouen.  We wandered round to find the Hotel De Bourgtheroulde.  Apparently this old building hosts two sculptures representing the Triumph of Petrarch and the other the episode from the Field of the Cloth of Gold that relates the diplomatic meeting of Henry VIII of England and Francois I of France in 1515.  Sadly the sculptures weren't visible from the street although we did enjoy the intricate detail of the building, which now serves as a luxury hotel.

Flags

The square where Joan of Arc was burned was just around the corner and it was here that we headed next.  The market square is now dominated by a modern church designed in a shape that is meant to evoke the flames that consumed her.  It is a very effective if slightly gruesome design.  Inside are some stained glass windows that were moved here from a nearby church that was largely destroyed during World War II.  Luckily the glass had been removed from the church ahead of hostilities and was thus spared the destruction of the original church.  Around the church were a number of market stalls and cafes but strangely it was quite quiet when we passed by.  I have a feeling that a weekend day would have been a lot busier.

St Joan of Arc Church

Our route now took as through a meandering look at the tight knit streets in the historic quarter.  We were already needing some refreshment though and we soon came upon a rather quirky little cat cafe.  These establishments have become quite popular recently but I have to confess it was the first time I have ever been in one.  The premise is that people call in for their cuppa and share the experience with a number of cats that are only too willing to offer their devotion.  At least that is the theory - in this particular establishment the cats kept us more entertained by staying out of our way high up on the various pieces that had been put there to keep them entertained.  Various perches, walkways and cushions kept them just out of reach as they looked down us disdainfully...

Walking Street

We meandered through the city streets enjoying the ambience of the old half timbered buildings and the eclectic shop windows.  Some of the stuff on offer was quite surprising with junk shops in particular catching our eye.  without really realising it we were slowly looping back towards the cathedral and the other part of the loop that leads around the eastern half of the old quarter..  We passed by the Palais de Justice and the Parliament of Normandy.  It has served as the latter since the 1500s and is beautifully decorated but it is perhaps the very obvious damage from World War II shells that are the most surprising feature of the building not least because of the sheer number of them.

Cat Cafe

The route took us down the north side of the cathedral through perhaps the most delightful of all the streets in the city.  The cafes and bars here are particularly inviting and we took note of a couple that we revisited later in the week.  The prices are a bit steep though so be warned!  Also along this street is the museum devoted to Joan of Arc telling the remarkable story of her short life.  The exhibition recounts her trial through its fascinating twists and turns.  The outcome was never in doubt but getting to the verdict was more problematic than you might expect principally because of the way that Joan conducted herself.  It is a very interesting way of handling her life rather than the more traditional types of exhibition.

St Maclou

Behind the cathedral and across another main road is another incredibly ornate and beautiful church, this time the church of St Maclou, a flamboyant edifice that was started in 1436 but not completed for almost 100 years.  Although the structure has lasted remarkably well history hasn't been completely kind to this church.  It suffered significant damage in World War II, had many of its statues inside removed during the French Revolution and lost much of its internal furniture during World War II.  Nevertheless it is worth pausing to enjoy the intricate stonework of the frontage as we did before moving on.

Bunting

We took a route along a street that had a stream running though it in a culvert.  It was tastefully done and the water was clean and fast moving which seemed to provide a completely different ambience from any old pedestrianised street.  The buildings were still half timbered but we were clearly moving away from the historic quarter now because they were interspersed with the odd more modern one presumably replacements for ones destroyed in the war.  We looped around at the far end so that we could enter the gardens at the rear of L'hotel De Ville.  This beautiful little oasis was worth lingering over with some interesting statues and planting arrangements.  Of particular note is a stone that was placed here in 1911 to celebrate 1000 years since the founding of the Duchy of Normandy by Viking settlers.

Window Shopping

The church next to the gardens is astonishing in scale - this is the Church of St Ouen, built as an abbey church for a long lost Benedictine Order.  It is similar in scale to the nearby cathedral and in any other city would surely be the centrepiece rather than a supporting act in ecclesiastical terms.  The main tower is rather reminiscent of the one you can see at Ely Cathedral in England.  It took a long time to complete, finally being finished in the 15th Century.  The west facade wasn't completed though until the 19th Century and looks rather grubby compared with the cleaner lines of the rest of the church.  Next door at the front is the grand looking Hotel De Ville, with an eyecatching statue of Napoleon astride a horse rearing up.  He certainly looks the all conquering hero in this pose.

Hotel De Ville Gardens

The last part of our walk took a loop around the neighbourhood that starts climbing the hill that forms the side of the Seine valley.  The main reason for following this route is to take visitors to the Natural History Museum and the Museum of Antiquities but we were out of luck because both were closed as was the Rouen Dungeon housed in the only part of Rouen Castle that still exists.  Not on the official walk but worth a mention as it is across the road is the rather fine looking Rouen Rive-Droite Railway station which was completed in 1928 and is a magnificent monument to railway travel.

St Ouen Church

We headed back down the hill from here back to the Cathedral stopping briefly in the garden at the front of the museum.  A lot of care and attention had gone into this particular garden - it is obviously one of the jewels for the city authorities.  The museum at the back looked interesting as well but sadly we managed to find it closed on the day we visited.  Do you spot a theme?  A lot of places are closed in August that's for sure but you also have to pay attention to the days that places are closed - a lot of museums close at least one day per week and it's usually a weekday rather than a weekend one. 

Rouen Rive Droite Station

No matter that so many places were closed - you would be hard pressed to include most of them on this walk.  The Joan of Arc Museum is a must as is a visit to view inside the cathedral but other than that you would probably need several days to do the place justice.  Rouen is certainly a fascinating city that is worth lingering in - this walk will help you see most of the main places worth seeing.  Make sure to allow cafe time too - watching the world go by with a cold beer or a coffee is fascinating too!

Hotel De Ville and Napoleon