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Las Negras Beach |
One of the best decisions we
have made in years was the one where we made up our minds to go to Andalucia
in Spain
for a winter holiday. After all the incredibly wet weather we have had
this winter it was such a relief to see some dry and sunny weather! It
was our first family holiday to Spain
although us parents had been for short trips before as an add on to other
holidays to Portugal and France.
Although we weren't focused on doing any walking on our trip, it is in our
blood so when we heard about a coastal walk to a 'ghost village' we were
definitely up for it!
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Beach Mural |
The day we picked was rather
overcast although the forecast suggested that we might get some sun down by
the coast. Our walk started at the small pueblo of Las Negras in the
Cabo de Gata Park, a protected part of the Andalucian coast that is largely
free from development. Looking at the rugged coastline when we got
there it was easy to see why it had not been prime development land, but
having it protected is surely a good thing for years to come.
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Las Negras |
In truth the weather was no
better when we got to the coast and when we looked at the rugged coastline we had
our doubts as to whether the walk was viable or not. However, having made
the hour long journey to get there we decided to persevere and after some time
on the beach and eating our lunch we headed off to where we thought the village
would be.
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Unfinished Road |
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At the end of the village of Las Negras was a rather rough looking
road that headed up into the hills. We had no map but I did know that
the lost village was about an hour's walk along the coast and that was the
only likely route so we set off on our exploration. Our destination,
the lost village
of San Pedro was left
deserted a few years ago after the few remaining elderly residents decided to
move to Las Negras after the latter had a road built to it. The rough
road we were following looked like it might be an extension of that road but
had not been completed. It snaked up around the hillside and soon the children
were getting left behind. We paired up with a child each and that
definitely got them going as each daughter got the full and undivided
attention they needed with each parent.
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Red Squill |
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Eventually the road ran out of
puff. The amount of engineering that had gone into this redundant piece
of infrastructure was surprising but given the onward terrain I'm not quite
sure how it could have been finished off. All along the verge side were
clumps of pretty flowers - many fragrant and most quite colourful. Some
were familiar such as prickly pear cacti and wild thyme while others were new
to me. Despite the splashes of colour provided by each flowering plant
the overall colour of the landscape though was beige and this wasn't helped
by the stubbornly overcast conditions.
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Approaching San Pedro |
The path narrowed considerably
after the end of the road and headed back towards the coast. I tried to
picture which way the road would have gone had it been completed. I can
only think significant additional engineering and probably blasting away more
of the cliff to accommodate it would have been necessary. Surely this
would have been a step too far and I imagine that the environmental damage that
it would have caused coupled with the cost probably killed it off once and for
all.
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San Pedro Castle |
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As we moved on from the road
the path got steadily narrower and more unsteady. Eventually as we
rounded the corner we could see our final destination , the small village and
ruined castle
of San Pedro down in
the cove ahead. The path down to the bottom was a little scary in
places and on one occasion I lost my footing entirely (thankfully without any
consequences other than hurting my pride a little).
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Spanish Country Garden |
Eventually we found our way
down to the village and its ruined castle. The castle was a shell - a ruin
of a fortification that had been built to protect the coastline from attack
by Barbary Pirates in the 17th Century, it was also bombarded by French and
British forces during its time. The village wasn't quite as billed -
some of the abandoned houses have been reclaimed by a hippie community
although it was largely deserted. One or two hardy souls were camping
but I understand that in the summer the place is heaving with campers.
With very rudimentary facilities I reckon it must be far more pleasant to camp
in February than the heat of the summer.
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San Pedro Beach |
We headed down to the lonely
beach and enjoyed the view while we had some refreshments at the end of our
walk. I understand that it is possible to continue on to Agua Amarca,
another 7km or so further along the coast. Sadly that would have to wait
for another trip, for although very tempting there was no transport to get us
back to the beginning. We contented ourselves therefore with lingering on
the beach for some time watching the birds and playing in the sand before
heading back up the rocky track back to the car, feeling very satisfied with
our afternoon of fresh air!
Hi Paul
ReplyDeleteInteresting post on your San Pedro walk, it reminding me of paths I have walked in Sardinia and Greece. I have done a fair bit of walking abroad and find that most countries just do not have the network of footpaths to cater for walkers. Having said that, the situation does now seem to be improving, with certain countries now realising that there is a demand for it.
There is nowhere like the UK for trails and footpaths but I do like Madeira and North West Majorca for mountain hiking.
Bill
http://www.walksintameside.co.uk
Thanks very much Bill. I have found the same in the USA. Trails are built rather than created. I am tempted by a trip to Madeira - might try and make that happen in the next 2-3 years. Good to hear that there is good walking to be had there
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