Brightling Forest |
Autumn has crept on and walks
have been at a bit of a premium but we did find time to explore Brightling Park, somewhere I had been meaning to
take a look around for a long time. We managed to find a bright sunny day
without any obligations for our walk and picked it out of the East Sussex and
the Downs book from the Pathfinder Guide
Series (volume 67 walk 4)
Company |
Our walk started in a pocket car
park on the edge of Brightling
Forest. In the
distance we saw the first of the buildings that we had come to look at; the
so-called ‘observatory’, which is one of the many follies that are scattered
throughout the park. Brightling
Park was once owned by
‘Mad’ Jack Fuller, an eccentric politician and philanthropist who was the
supporter and mentor of Michael Faraday in the early 1800s. During the
time he owned the park he commissioned a number of follies and they all still
stand today. Unfortunately the walk didn’t get any closer to the
Observatory but this is now a private residence and perhaps serves the most
useful function of all the remaining buildings.
Opening |
Our walk initially took us
through the woods of Brightling
Forest, now reaching its
autumn zenith in terms of colours. This is also the time of year where
underfoot conditions always seem to be wet, no matter how nice the day is, and
we were glad of our boots. After wandering along a forest break and then
a rather narrow path we eventually came out into an open area with wide ranging
views across the East Sussex Wealden landscape to the sea beyond. This is
1066 country – the land that was once conquered by William of Normandy and his
band of adventurers in the 11th Century. The villages and towns in this
area would have been the first to feel the force of the invading army.
Now all seems so quiet that this tumultuous event in British history seems to
be hard to place in this landscape.
Fruits of the Season |
Closer to us the folly collection
became apparent with the passing of a small summerhouse in the forest and then
further off we could see The Temple. Alas it is only possible to get a
distant view of this structure but it looks regal in the landscape even 200
years after it was built. Far from being a worshipping place though there
are stories of all night parties, card games and general debauchery going on
inside during Fuller’s lifetime.
Summerhouse |
Around the hill we were standing
on was a small water channel and we made sure to
stay on the outside of it as we passed around the small woodland contained
within. My children were delighted to find some enormous mushrooms within
the ditch – I told them they were parasols and we were lucky enough to find
some at various stages of opening.
Fungi |
At the far end of the field we
crossed through the woodland and on the other side we had the seemingly endless
view to the north. I rarely come to this part of Sussex and had
forgotten how beautiful the countryside is around this part of the Weald.
Although no longer the impenetrable forest it once was the Weald is still
pretty well dominated by woodland and the only breaks appeared to be small
villages and churches that dot the landscape.
Temple |
We met a fairly busy country lane
and walked the short distance along it to reach Brightling Church.
The church itself is pretty typical of those found in this part of Sussex, being
fairly squat and with a castellated tower that probably acted as a lookout
point. What is remarkable about the church though is the large pyramid
that is housed in the front. This is the final resting place of John ‘Mad
Jack’ Fuller, who built the mausoleum during his lifetime. Legend has it
that he is sat bolt upright in a chair inside the pyramid, wearing best suit
and top hat with a glass of claret in his hand waiting for dinner.
Surrounding him is broken glass scattered across the floor of the tomb,
designed to discourage the devil from taking his soul! My kids lapped
this story up!
Temple Close Up |
Across a couple of fields from
the church and we arrived at a tower partially hidden by a clump of trees.
This is said to have been built by Fuller as an observation tower for his
newly acquired purchase of Bodiam
Castle, located several
miles away. Fuller apparently bought the castle to save it from
demolition in the early 1800s.
View to the Sea |
We climbed up the tower, which
has had an observation deck installed inside. Sadly looking out over the
landscape is not as easy as it would have been for Honest John (another of his
nicknames), not least because of the trees which have grown up around the tower.
The opportunity to climb up inside was very welcome though as well as quite
surprising.
View North |
We headed downhill and back
across the Brightling Road
to follow a road down to the main house on the estate. I think there must
have been a shooting event or something going on because this road was
surprisingly busy and we had to step off to one side several times in order to
keep out the way of the cars. When we
got to the estate farm we were very relieved to leave the road behind us as
stepping off every minute or so of walking was rather a trial.
Brightling Cottage |
Our onward route took us past the
Temple once
again, this time on the hill above us rather than below. Initially we followed the path across fields
but eventually descended back into Brightling
Forest crossing over some
small iron stained streams as we did so.
These streams gave us a clue about Jack Fuller’s wealth for he was also
an industrialist who owned iron- making foundries when this part of Sussex was the centre of the UK iron
industry.
Brightling Church and Pyramid |
We trudged up through the forest
finding more fungi in the ditches alongside our path. It also got increasingly mucky as we went
along and in places it was pretty hard going through the mud. Eventually we came to the end of the forest
track and had to make a minor detour away from the circuit in order to see the
final folly of the day, known as the Sugarloaf.
This curious structure is said to resemble the conical shape that sugar
was sold in during the 18th Century.
Brightling Tower |
As with all the other tales
surrounding the follies this one is also rather colourful. During a gambling session in London Fuller is
said to have laid a wager with friends that he could see Dallington
Church from his house at the centre of
Brightling Park.
Upon his return he realised that such a view was impossible and he
therefore erected the folly to ensure that he won the bet! The folly now looks rather strange in the
landscape; just a curiosity from a time long ago. Amazingly though it wasn’t always this way as
it was a two storey dwelling until the 1930s.
I’m not sure how comfortable it was though as it looks scarcely big
enough to live in.
Tower Close Up |
By now the sun was going down
rapidly and so we continued on our way.
The last stretch of the walk wasn’t so good as again we had to walk
along the road once again to get back to our car. In cleaner times this can be avoided by
double backing through the forest and taking other tracks back to the car
park. Having picked our way through the
mud once though we were in no mood to do that again. Despite the nuisance of the road we did get
some wide ranging views across to the South Downs
near Lewes so it wasn’t all bad.
Despite its short length (4
miles) this was fascinating walk full of
history and improbable tales from a very eccentric man, which appealed to the
girls very much. The autumn landscape
seemed particularly appealing for the walk too, somehow it lent some additional
atmosphere to all the follies and helped tell the story. The views across the surrounding countryside
are also magnificent – this truly packed a lot into a short length.
Sugar Loaf |
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