A Trio of Parks

Going Nowhere

Even if you have never been to Bangkok there is a fair chance that you have heard of Chatuchak Weekend Market as it is reputed to be the biggest in South East Asia.  The array of goods on offer is quite astonishing and even those visitors intent on browsing would be hard pressed to come away with nothing for the stalls sell things you didn't even know you needed!  Coming from the north of the city you pass a very large and welcoming park just before reaching the market and my eyes landed on it the first time I went as it begged to be explored.  What I wasn't aware of is that the park is actually three contiguous parks and not just one.  It is the largest green space in the area and for a city that is relatively badly off for parks it is remarkably big.  The three parks are known as Chatuchak, Wachiribenchatat and Queen Sirikit and each occupy areas that were once owned by the State Railway of Thailand.  They were built in 1980, 1992 and 2002 respectively.  It is a great haven to escape the hullabaloo of Bangkok and in the middle of the complex it is easy to forget that you are hemmed in by one of the most densely populated cities in Asia.  

Latin American Monument

I started my walk at Chatuchak Park MRT (subway) station on the eastern edge of Chatuchak Park.  This is probably the easiest way to get to the park since the station entrance is right outside the park.  You could equally get here using the Skytrain as Mo Chit station is connected to Chatuchak Park Station although it is a little more awkward to get in the park.  Eventually the Sky Train will open to the north of here but for now the line terminates here.

Tree Orchid

Chatuchak Park is the oldest of the three parks and looks like it has been around for far longer than its 38 year history.  It was gifted by the King from the State Railway to enable Bangkokians to enjoy some green space and walk around.  The first feature that you come to is a rather pleasant looking artificial lake surrounded by palm trees.  Despite the fact that it was the end of October when I did this walk it couldn't have been a more different day than I am used to in the UK.  Suncream and a wide brimmed hat were very necessary along with a lot of water since it was already 34 degrees Celsius and not even 11am when I started.  Certainly no chilly temperatures or autumn leaves!

Water lily & visitors

I turned right inside the park and wandered alongside the artificial lake.  I soon came acros an interesting memorial and went over for a closer look.  I felt a little self conscious as I did so for I had to cross the grass and wasn't sure whether I was supposed to.  The nearby park worker didn't bat an eyelid so I felt better about not being challenged.  Rather randomly the memorial was to commemorate the bicentenaries of the independence of Argentina, Mexico and Chile.  It wasn't what I expected to see and apart from the explanation of what it was for there was nothing to indicate why it should find itself here.

Thai-USA sculpture

As I headed north along the edge of the park I became aware of the planting scheme that had been adopted by the groundskeepers.  There was a large area of planted trees that looked delightfully shady.  I didn't venture in as I noticed a number of people snoozing in the shade and I didn't much want to disturb them.  I sat on a nearby bench to cool off and was amused by the antics of all the squirrels.  Despite the heat they run about just as quickly as I have ever seen them in northern climes.
After a breather I was ready to admire the flowers alongside the walkway - there were some very pretty ones including tree orchids and irises which were my favourites.

Take Off

It won't surprise you to know that this is a place where people like to have their wedding pictures taken and a little further on was a place that had been specially designed for that purpose.  It was a pleasant little cubby hole but instead of romantic thoughts my eyes were drawn to the construction work on the Skytrain right outside the park.  The method is quite interesting.  As its name suggests the Skytrain is built above street level on a concrete viaduct over the street.  It's not very pretty - in fact it's a bit brutal looking, especially the stations.  Each of the spans is lowered into place by mobile cranes that span the gaps between the columns and drop the pieces into place.  Great sections of line are being built as Bangkok catches up with other cities and tries to resolve its choking traffic problem.

Floral Clock

Back in the park and I passed by a floral clock before reaching the Thai-USA garden which was quite a formal affair.  The centrepiece was a sculpture that looked like a knight on horseback although I had to use my imagination a bit for on first viewing it looked like a bunch of tubes and a couple of slabs of metal on top.

Park Ranger

Further on I stopped at the next lake where there was an eye catching sculpture of some swans (?) taking off.  I assume that was what I was looking at as they were heavily stylised. Regular stops like this were necessary because of the heat and in this case the shade from the trees also helped.  What drove me rather mad though was a bird high up in the branches that was teasing me with its cry.  I wanted to see what was making the sound but it seemed just out of sight the whole time and even moved without me seeing how it had done so (unless there were a few of them playing the same game of course!).  I moved on without ever having seen the dreaded thing.  I am sure the park workers thought I was mad...

Ratchapruek Trees

After walking around the lake I crossed the road that divides Chatuchak Park from its next-door neighbour called Wachiribenchatat Park (or Rot Fai Park as some seemed to call it - I'm not sure what the distinction is).  This is the newest of the three parks and was once a golf course owned by the Railway.  There is now a cycling track around it (will have to try that one day) as well as more artificial lakes.  Almost immediately I saw a sight that I hadn't in the first park - a small monitor lizard that ran away from me.  It wouldn't be the last.

Sculpture

I wandered around the lake admiring the yellow flowers known as Ratchapruek.  These flowering small trees really are everywhere and seem very tolerant of their surroundings, growing on roadside verges and waste ground just as happily as they do in this verdant park.  The lakeside had a wilder feel to it than the other park and in some ways was the better for it.  As I wandered along I had the feeling of being observed and as I looked over I saw one of the Javan River Herons that I regularly see on the development site near where I live.  Normally they fly away pretty quickly but this one chose to stare me out instead and I was able to observe its pretty markings.  When they fly away they are a lot whiter than you would expect.

Great Egret

At the far end of the lake is a rather curious find as a steam locomotive has been parked and left as a static display.  The tree growing from its front cowcatcher was a good clue for how long it has been here and the plaque dates it as 1987.  It must have been a pretty mighty machine in its heyday, built by the Japanese in 1950.  Now it looks a bit sad hemmed in by its tree in a forgotten part of the park, with only cyclists regularly passing by.  The coach it is attached to looks a bit tatty but in far better condition than some others over in the car park serving as facilities for restaurants associated with the cycle hire operation.

Staring Contest

I continued around the perimeter route and a little further beyond where I met another lake I also caught sight of a big brute of a lizard.  I reckon it was the middle aged let himself go monitor lizard as this one had a beer belly that I swear dragged along the ground.  It certainly was in no hurry to get away from me unlike the youngster I had seen earlier.  I gave him a wide berth although they are not harmful to humans as a genera rule (if they were you can bet your life they would not be tolerated wandering around a public park).

Engine Cab

At the corner of the lake was an inviting looking gate that I wandered through.  I wasn't altogether sure that this part was open to the public but I had a look anyway.  It seemed to be part of a research institute and there were all sorts of interesting flowers and plants growing in waters being specially oxygenated by machines.  I wandered all the way down to the end and thought I could resume my walk on the other side of a bridge over a lily pad covered pond.  Sadly the gate was locked at that end and I had to retrace my steps all the way back to the beginning and then follow another path parallel to the enclosed part.  I was deep in thought on this stretch when I had the fright of my life thanks to another monitor lizard lurking in the long grass which I didn't see until the last minute.  I was thankful then that they aren't bothered by humans - if they were I would surely have been dinner.

Big Fella

It wasn't long after this that I left Wachiribenchatat Park and entered the last of the 3 parks - Queen Sirikit.  I turned left after crossing the small canal/ ditch that acts as a boundary between the parks and was soon walking through an area of fruit trees.  I felt  like an inner-city child entering his first farm full of bewilderment at all the new sights that were previously unknown.  The one that piqued my interest most of all was the banana tree as it was in flower and I had never previously seen one.  It was immediately obvious though how the flowers turned into the fruits that we all know.  Its neighbour was the papaya tree, a fruit that has become a firm family favourite since our move here.

Banana flower

Having genned up on fruit it was now time to go and see some flowers.  This park is clearly more botanical than the other two for there were numerous displays of hibiscus, palm trees and even a bed of sunflowers.  It was a very pretty place and one to linger for a while.  I had a couple of rests along this stretch as the heat was really starting to get to me by now.  Fortunately at the bottom end of the park I was able to escape at a lovely looking pavilion that I wasn't sure was in use any longer.  There is a gate at the back from where I left the park and headed to a very welcome air-conditioned mall for some well earned lunch.

Lily Pads

This is far from being a challenging walk but it does serve as a good place to start walking in Bangkok as the city itself does not seem to very walker friendly.  I hope that further explorations will prove this early impression wrong as there is a lot to see and I don't want to do all of it using taxi cabs.

Park Flags